Pay attention that the bottom pair of fins is away a bigger distance from the neighbouring fins than the others. As a result we’ve got a groove of almost 4mm width in which we can place a heat pipe. You’ll see everything yourself, then. One more advantage of these radiators is a flat upper end which allows to fasten an extension to it (we’ll make use of it certainly).
In addition to the power supply unit it’s necessary to buy the following set:
- Zalman type HDD-cooler ZM-2HC2 (23$), it will be the source of heat pipes. If you manage to find 2HC1 (an obsolete model), take it without doubt: it has one pipe less, but its pipes have thinner walls and they are easier to bind.
- A couple of processor radiators. I bought these two radiators in the market for 7$. They are of different model but cheap :). It’s important: as we’ll draw these radiators together, they must have either lugs at the edge of the foot like it is shown in the photo (in case of radiators for S478) or a wide groove in the center (in case of radiators for S462). In other words there must be a vacant from the fins space where we can drill holes for coupling screws. Size of radiators is the more the best provided that they don’t project from the power unit external dimensions according to the width\height and don’t block the power socket. Well. One more detail: do you see the cuts on the foot of one radiator? Try to avoid such cuts on your device; I’ll explain the reason later.
- A couple of radiators – extensions. My couple from "Cheap&Deep" cost 5$. Their length is not important: provided that they fit in the power unit case; width and height of fins are bounded. It’s up to you to choose their width and height; you’ll have certain reasons to judge by when defining them. Distance between the fins is also important: the screw heads must fit into it.
- Two syringes of hot adhesive. I used thermal adhesive “Radial”: 0.9$ for a syringe. I bought them in the same Cheap&Deep and paid in overall 1.8$.
- A tube of thermal paste.
And some more things:
- Aluminium tube of 8mm diameter with walls thickness 1mm. It is available in OBI in one meter pieces, the price in near 4$.
- Aluminium angle bar 50mm×50mm, its thickness is within 3mm. You can buy it in OBI again and in some construction markets: the cost of running meter doesn’t differ greatly from the cost of a tube. If outward appearance is not of great importance for you, any flat aluminium bar will suit instead of the angle bar; this aluminium bar is easy to bind at 90 degrees.
- Taps M3 and M4 (from 1.7$ to 10$ apiece depending on the quality and quantity of passes).
- A 5.1 mm drill (in option). It is implied that you’ve already had a kit of drills of standard diameters. Drills with a pitch of 0.1 mm are available in any firm selling technical work tools (it’s easy to find them via Internet); their price is moderate. However take into account that not all firms agree to deal with individual persons: you have to phone them and get the information.
- A 3.2 mm drill (in option). It’s necessary for drilling holes for M4 thread if you need it. 3.3 mm and even larger suits as well, but keep in mind that the thicker a drill is, the more the screw dangles in the thread.
Total: fully-featured fanless power supply unit costs nearly 70$.